This is actually a reread, as I've read most of this book before. Still, Trillin's by far my favorite food writer. His searches for the best ceviche in Equador, the best fish taco in San Diego (it's in Mexico, apparently), the best Chinese restaurant in Paris, and the magic bagel that'll convince his daughter to move back to New York are incredibly entertaining (whether you're interested in the dish in question or not). Trillin finds dignity (and something to write about) in the lowliest of sandwiches.
In his discussion of regional foods and how seriously people take them, Trillin spends just a couple paragraphs on San Francisco burritos. He even closes with the idea that some New York restaurant advertising "San Francisco Burritos" would entice a San Franciscan to consider moving to New York.
Still, read this, or any of Trillin's other food books.